Sunday, September 20, 2026

Cutting strips longer than your ruler

What do you do when you need to cut a piece that is longer than your ruler?  You fold the fabric and do a little math.  It's a tiny little bit of math, easy peasy, I promise.

Any ruler can be used to cut a piece that is up to twice as long as the ruler.

·         A 24” inch ruler will allow you to cut lengths up to 48” long.

·         A 12” ruler will allow you to cut lengths 24” or shorter.

As an example, let's cut a 2.5" x 18" strip with a 12" ruler.  I'm demonstrating using a 12" ruler to demonstrate the technique because it's easier to photograph and show details when using the smaller ruler, but this applies to any length up to twice as long as the ruler you have available.


Preliminary Steps

Step 1: Calculate half the required length.  Let’s call this H.

For my example:  half of 18" is 9", so H=9".

Step 2: Cut a strip to the required width. (Refer to this tutorial if you need guidance on measuring and cutting straight strips.)


Make a Decision

At this point you need to decide if you prefer two smaller scraps leftover, or need one longer scrap. 

Fabric strips on a cutting mat.  A dark strip and a short strip are the same length and are each labelled "measured strip".  One dark strip is shorter than the measured dark strip.   Two light strips are the same length bit shorter than all the other strips.

For example, if I'm cutting 38" strip from a 40" strip, I can end up with two 1" scraps or one 2" scrap.  Do I need that 2" piece or can I live with two 1" pieces to discard?  I'll probably live with the 1" bits.

In a different scenario, suppose I'm cutting a 28" piece from a 40" strip.  I might need the full 12" leftover to cut one 8" piece and one 4" piece as well.  Two 6" scraps won't let me cut both those extra pieces.

I know that looks like math.  The easiest thing to do is buy extra fabric so you deal with the two extra scraps, save them for another project, and cut the extra pieces from extra fabric.  However, that costs extra fabric, and only you know if that's in your budget so I'm giving you options!

I'll show you what to do in each cae.  Remember that in the examples below, I'm cutting 18" strips using a 12" ruler.


OPTION 1 - Two Shorter Scraps

Step 1: Fold the strip in half. (If you cut the strip from a piece of fabric folded selvedge to selvedge, just don’t unfold the strip.)

Step 2: Position your ruler square with the fold, with measurement H on the fold.

Long strip of blue fabric folded selvedge to selvedge, on a cutting mat.  A cutting ruler is positioned over the strip, with the desired measurement aligned along the fold.  An arrow points to the measurement line, and the text reads "H=9 measurement line aligned with the fold in the strip".

Step 3:  Trim away the ends of the strip extending past the end of the ruler

Blue strip trimmed to deisred length, with rulers still in position.  Ends that were trimmed awa lay to the right of the trimmed strip.


When you open up that fold you should have a piece the length you needed, plus two extra scraps trimmed from the ends.

Trimmed strip and the two scraps resulting from trimming the strip to length.


OPTION 2 - One Longer Scrap

Step 1:  Fold the strip so the length of the top layer is just a little longer than H.  You could try to make that top layer exactly H, but that's a little fussy to do.  Going a smidge over H gives you wiggle room.  I like wiggle room. In the photo below the wiggle room is extra generous because there's unusable selvedge at the end of that top piece, so I'm extending it past H so that bit will be trimmed away too.  

Blue strip of fabric on a cutting matt above a quilting ruler and rotary cutter.  The strip is folded back on itself, with the fols on the left.

Step 2: Position your ruler square with the fold, with measurement H on the fold.

Rotary cutting ruler positioned over a foled strips of fabric, with the ruler positioned to measure from the fold in the fabric.

Step 3:  Trim away the ends of the strip extending past the end of the ruler.  (I just noticed I swept the little trimmed bit of selvedge off before I took the picture below.  It was trimmed, trust me!)

Foled trimmed fabric strip still under the ruler used to measure and trim the strip, with the long scrap strip that was trimmed away lying to the right.

When you open up the fold you should have a piece the length you needed, plus one scrap trimmed from the end.

Unfolded trimmed strip, with leftover scrap, rotary cutter and ruler below it

That's all there is to it!  

As always, please drop your questions or anything you'd like to add in the comments below.

Happy quilting,

Joanne

PS:  Thank you to White Owl Textiles for the fabrics used in this tutorial. Both are from their "Codici" Fundamentals collection.

  • Option 1:  Denim (W165-001-555)
  • Option 2:  Navy (W165-001-585)

Friday, September 18, 2026

How to cut straight strips

One of the most useful skills I have learned in rotary cutting is how to cut straight strips from selvedge to selvedge.   You can make most efficient use of your fabric if you don't have to discard the middle of the strip becase there's a little jog or bend in the middle.  Also, discarding the middle bit isn't an option if you're making width-of fabric strip sets, or when you need a strip longer than half the width of fabric.

Two blufbaric strips on a cutting mat with rulers highlighting the strip on the left is bent while the strip on the right is straight

I purposely cut the bent strip shown above a little more crooked than you would probably usually see, to make sure you could see the bend in the photo.  Less pronounced jogs in your strip are still a problem though.  Read on for my best tips to avoid them.

I strongly recommend using a 24” ruler.  The ruler will be long enough to span most quilting cottons when folded in half selvedge to selvedge.  You could fold the fabric into four layers so a shorter ruler could span the width, but I have not had good results this way.  I don't have eyes on that inner fold to make sure it's straight with the ruler to avoid a bend when cutting through that fold.


Step 1: Fold the fabric

Fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, matching the selvedge edges.  Check the folded edge to see if it's smooth.  If not, slide the two selvedges in opposite directions, keeping them even with each other, until the folded edge is smooth, with no pulling or wrinkles.

Piece of blue fabric folded selvedge to selvedge, with rumpled folded edge
Rumpled fold

Piece of blue fabric folded selvedge to selvedge, with smooth folded edge
Smooth fold after sliding the selvedges 

At this point, you may prefer to straighten the cut edge of your fabric before cutting a strip.  I prefer to straighten that edge after cutting the strip, so I don’t have to reposition the fabric for measuring and risk having the fabric layers shift.  Keep reading.  It will make sense.  I took photos to show you what I do.

Note that I’m right handed, so these instructions and photos show fabric and ruler positions for right-handed cutting.  If you’re left-handed, you’ll most likely need to reverse those.

Step 2: Position the fabric

I prefer to place the fabric on the cutting mat with the folded edge positioned closest to me.  This makes it easier to look straight down at the fold to line up the ruler accurately along the fold to make a straight cut.

Step 3: Place the ruler

Lay the quilting ruler across the fabric, extending beyond the fabric on both ends, with a horizontal measurement line matched perfectly with the folded edge.

Hand positioning a quilting ruler on blue fabric, with an arrow pointing to a horizontal measurement line lined up with the fold in tha fabric.  Text below arrow reads "Horizontal ruler markings are lined up with the fold".

          

Position the measurement line for the width you need slightly to the right of the unstraightrened edge.  Make sure to also keep the horizontal marking lined up with the fold.

Ruler on fabric, with a red line highligting the 2 1/2" measurement markings on the ruler.  the red line is just to the right of the ragged cut edge of the fabric
Rule positioned to cut a 2 1/2" strip. 
The 2 1/2" vertical measurement is highlighted in red.
Notice folded edge is till aligned with a horizontal line on the ruler.

Closeup of a quilting ruler on blue fabric, with a red line highlighting the desitred measurement to the right of the ragged edge of the fabric.
A closer look at the vertical alignment

Cut along the right side of the ruler.

Blue fabric on a cutting mat.  Ruler is in position, and fabrics has been cut along the right side of the ruler and has been pulled away.  Rotary cutter is lying shut on the fabric after the cut.

You could straighten the crooked edge now, but I prefer to cut additional strips first, since there is now a lovely straight edge to measure from for any additional required strips

Multiple strips of blue fabric on a cutting mat.  The leftmost strip has a ragged edge.  The two center strips are straight and even.  The last strip is a wider leftover piece of the fabric. In all strips, the folded center is at the bottom of the photo.


After cutting as many more strips as needed or as many as you can fit on the cutting mat, rotate the cutting mat 180 degrees.  I prefer to rotate the cutting mat rather than manipulate the fabric and risk having the fabric shift before I’m done trimming the strip.  



Position the ruler over the first strip you cut to measure the strip width from the straight edge.

A ruler is positioned over a blue fabric strip, with the 2 1/2" measurement markings lhighlighted in red and positioned along the straight left side of the strip.  The ragged right side of the strip extends past the right dge of the ruler.

Trim away the crooked edge to the right of the ruler. 

Ruler and rotary cutter with trimmed strip of fabrics, showing ragged piece trimmed away from strip when starightening strip.

Also note that if the left edge stops being square with the fold at any time while I'm cutting strips, I prioritize matching the horizontal ruler markings with the fold rather than vertical ones with the left edge.  The strip will not be a consistent width, but as long as I make sure that the narrowest part is at least the width I need, I can trim the strip to the required consistent width after I rotate the mat, in the same way as I trim the strip with the crooked or ragged edge.

Here's one of the strips, unfolded, I zoomed in on the fold, so you can see there is no angle in the sides of the strip at the fold.  It's a tidy straight strip. I'll press that fold out now that I've shown you it's straight where the fold was.

Closeup of fabric strip on a cutting mat, focused on crease where strip was folded, showing there is no bend in the strip where it was folded duting cutting.

That's it! It's simple, but makes such a difference for accurate piecing.  Let me know in the comments if you have questions, or any useful tips to add.

Happy quilting,

Joanne

PS:  Thank you to White Owl Textiles for the fabric used in all but one photo in this tutorial. It's Denim (W110-001-515) from their Fundamentals collection "Stucco".  The first picture showing a bent versus straight strip is from my stash, because I didn't have enough of the Stucco to intentionally miscut a bent strip!

Sunday, August 23, 2026

Leaf Jumping quilt-in-progress

You may remember that when I shared my Jump Space quilt and pattern in April, I also pondered making a version with leaves instead of stars.  I thought it would be a quick little substitution, leaves in place of stars.

Digital quilt mockup featuring 14 maple leaf quilt blocks in 5 different red fabrics.  Pairs of parallel lines in assorted reds weave behind the leaves.  Leaves and lines are arranged to create a diagonal layout.
Leaf Jumping mocked up in Oh Canada fabrics from Northcott

Not so much.  It was a quick substitution in EQ8, just swapping one block with another and playing with different fabrics.  The not so quick part was refiguring the cutting charts and the fabric requirements, because the leaf has many more pieces in a greater variety of sizes.  I wasted a lot of time trying to "wing it" then accpeted that I would have to devote some time to it to do it right.  With the extra work, and extra pages of instructions, because the leaf was more involved to explain than the star, this turned into its own pattern.  Related, but separate.

Then there was the question of finding fabric.  I'm sure you won't be surprised to know that the Oh Canada fabrics from Northcott that I used in the mock-up above are not available in Iowa! 

White Owl textiles had a call for design submissions for their fall catalog while I was working out the changes, and I love how the design looked mocked up in one of their upcoming fall themed collections.  They didn't select my mockup for the catalog, but I'm definitely going to share it with you after they share this new fabric line.  With that fall look in mind, I planned to browse my local quilt shop and see if any current fall themed fabrics caught my eye.

Before I had a chance to do that, I went on vacation and visited my daughter in Vancouver, BC.  As we strolled through Granville Island, we came across The Cloth Shop quilt shop.  What's a quilter to do?  I had to pop in, daughter and husband in tow.  I turned right.  One shelf in, there was the Oh Canada fabric.  Guess what came back to Iowa in my suitcase?

7 fabrics are spread haphazardly on a wrought iron tabletop: 5 red tone-on-tone maple leaf prints, a cream blender fabric and a print with small gold leaves on cream background.
Fabrics from various editions of Oh Canada fabrics from Northcott

They only had 3 of the reds. I needed 5 but I bought what I could, including the coordinating cream Stonehenge and gold-on-cream tiny leaf print.  When I was back in my sewing room, I sorted through my stash of leftovers and found just enough of two more fabrics from previous Oh Canada collections.  Those are the bottom two reds in the photo above, leftover from my Canada 150 quilt and my not-yet-quilted Flipped placemats.

So, the red maple leaf version of the quilt was clearly meant to be!


Most of the parts for Leaf Jumping

Once I cut into the fabrics, it only took a couple of days to make the blocks.  There were a few HST and some stitch-and-flip corners, a little strip piecing, and some log cabin style assembly for a four blocks.  Ta da!

Red and cream quilt blocks tossed together:  red maple leaves on cream background, and pieced striped sashing blocks.
Blocks for the Leaf Jumping Quilt

There was a pause after the blocks were assembled before I could piece them into a completed quilt top, but with other unrelated tasks outof the way I was able to focus on this one again.  Here's the top, ready for quilting.

Pieced quilt top featuring 14 maple leaf quilt blocks in 5 different red fabrics.  Pairs of parallel lines in assorted reds weave behind the leaves.  Leaves and lines are arranged to create a diagonal layout.
Leaf Jumping quilt top.  Pattern coming in September!

I am a bit unsure that the lighter background was the best choice, but I'm hopeful that the quilting and binding will finish it off perfectly and I'll fall in love with it again.  I'm planning a scrappy binding using all five red fabrics from the leaves.

There will be another pause before I get to that point.  We're replacing the flooring in our house and we hit a snag.  The contents of my sewing room and office headed out to the garage on Tuesday and were supposed to be moved back in on Friday evening, but the flooring installer had an accident that paused the installation.  He's going to be OK, which is the important part, but I'm not sure when I'll get my sewing room back.  

In the meantme I'll pivot to designing a wedding quilt for my son and future daughter-in-law.  I have ideas simmering!

What's on your deisgn wall?

Joanne

PS:  The Leaf Jumping pattern will be released in mid-September.  Watch this space, or sign up for my newsletter for updates in your inbox.